Author Archives: Rita Lønn Hammer

About Rita Lønn Hammer

Kreftoverlever, bosatt på Stathelle i Telemark, mamma til to herlige, gift med Finn, glad i reise, generelt positiv, snill, omsorgsfull, lettrørt, hater urettferdighet.

Paris januar 2022

Vi reiste under pandemien (når det var lov) og vi stod ikke i kø noen steder, vi fikk sett alt vi ønsket oss og mere til.

Vi bodde på airbnb og vi tog og buss og gikk masse, spist sniler og ferske bakevarer og levd livet 🙂 Helt supert!

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Thomas på backpacking Peru, Bolivia, Amazonas, Brasil

How do you pack for a 3 month adventure in South America, which has every concieveable climate, all while not checking in your bag at the airport? Here’s my best attempt.

Total weight: 16 kg. Total volume: 55L (40L, 10kg +15L, 6kg). Hand luggage + ‘personal item’ if all goes right.

1x Laptop,
1x Reading tablet,
1x Spare phone,
3x Chargers,
2x Multi Adapters,
1x 20000 mA battery,
1x Speaker,
1x noice cancelling Headphones,
1x headphones
1x Action camera,

1x Ulvang wool sweater,
1x Hiking pants,
1x Jeans,
7x t shirts,
2x long sleeve,
3x hiking socks,
4x socks,
1x swimming pants,
1x merino t shirt
1x merino long sleeve
1x shirt
1x rain jacket
1x back up large poncho
1x compressible down jacket,
7x underwear
1x sunhat,
1x beanie
1x buff
1x sweatpants
1x hiking boots
1x slippers
1x converse shoes
3x shorts

2x (sun)glasses
1x compressible day pack
1x fanny pack
1x compressible water bottle
1x rain protection bag
1x sleeping kit (ear plugs, mask, air pillow)
1x toiletries
1x emergency med kit
1x medicine bag
2x lockers
1x microfiber towel
1x sleeping bag liner
1x dirty clothes sack
1x sink plug
1x clothing line
1x wet wipes
1x money belt
1x passport
1x document file
1x headlamp
1x shoe bag
3x packing cubes
2x compressible plastic bag
1x drypack

Some things will be left along the way, as I continue to optimize.

Rough day in Peru, Salkantay Pass 🇵🇪 24km hike, ~1000m ascent from 3700m to 4650m, followed by ~2000m descent to 2700. I’m totally not in shape for this 5 day, 74km hike, but I am surving so far. Last stop – Machu Picchu. First time being at such a high altitude, but the immensity of the mountains and the beauty of the surrounding nature makes it possible.

And of course, the jewel that was waiting for us at the end of the trek: Machu Picchu. In terms of the beauty that humans are capable of creating, MP represents the peak, imho. I don’t think my eyes have enjoyed as much pleasure as they did resting on MP. The location is just ridiculous, suddenly within this valley of a thousand mountains, MP appears. Unbelievable.

Big thanks to the group that I walked the Salkantay trek with, this was a highlight and an unforgettable experience in so many ways. Especially thanks to @jaimebiernaski for all the great pictures, and for carrying my ass up Mount Machu Picchu – another 600m ascend after you reach MP btw… After 5 days and 80km of walking, I was finished. @jaimebiernaski and @emmatintin insisted however, and of course they were right. Ending the trip with the epic view from the mountain, seeing Machu Picchu from above, was just right.

The Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu is one of those few, rare and actual once in a lifetime experiences. I cannot recommend it enough. Had an amazing guide, @rubenquispemaza and a cheerful, positive and loving group that made sure everyone made it through with a smile. It is really tough, a definite challenge, but the rewards.. the rewards!!! Gorgeous. Feels deserved.

An amazing group of promising mountaineers who all made it to 6k for the first time.

Death road survivors 🇧🇴 80km mountain biking down North Yungas Road, which got its name because 200-300 people used to die here yearly. It starts at 4600m and descends to 1500m, with a width of roughly 3m and vertical drops of up to 800m. It used to be the main connection between La Paz and Yungas, thus there would be traffic in both directions. The Top Gear Bolivia special shows how insane that used to be. Since then a new road has been built, and the death road is now only used by tourists, 25 of whom has died cycling down. Obviously riding down this road is a very stupid thing to do, but it’s also very very fun!

Got above 5000m for the first time today, Rainbow Mountain at 5036m and the Red Mountain at 5069m. Mostly fine with the altitude, had to take one aspirin against headache on the way down.

Hundreds of people go to the Rainbow Mountain daily (2nd most popular in Peru after Machu Picchu), but barely anyone goes to the Red Valley / Mountain. So few in fact, that I had it all too myself for the first 15 minutes. Which is a shame, because the view from there is definitely the prettier one – and from the perspective of 🌈 it is completely hidden.

It takes a bit more effort, but is so worth it. Take a left on the way down, pay the locals a few dollars and follow the trails in the dust. There’s two (+?) routes, the descent is pretty sleep.

6075m – Chachani Volcano, getting serious now! For context, that’s higher than every mountain in Europe, Africa, Oceania and Antarctica 😁 The oxygen level here is 9.7%, less than half that of sea level.

It’s categorized as one of the easier 6k summits to make, but that does not mean it’s easy, just that its non-technical. We made camp at 5200m to acclimatize, where it’s common to only be able to sleep for 20 to 30 minutes at a time. Then we woke up at 01:30 am, and started the 900m ascent towards summit, reaching it around 06:30 am.

900m ascend at this altitude is tough, everything is working against you. Your body doesn’t work as it normally does, and you’re forced to go slow. Headaches, stomach pain, dizziness. It’s minus 10 degrees Celsius, windy, and the trail gets really slim towards the end. Our guide cheerfully told us that those who made a wrong step in the past died on impact ✨️

I don’t know why mountains suddenly attract me so much, but the sense of relief and accomplishment, accompanied with a proper panoramic view is very special. I’ve met some really inspiring people while trekking this trip, and they’ve kept pushing me to do harder things. As far as mountains goes though, this is probably my limit for a while. I am absolutely destroyed 🙃

For proper mountaineers this is realtively easy, but I think it’s cool that (well prepared) amateurs can get these views too!

Huayna Potosi (6088m), Friday 5th of August 2022, 06:05 AM. Me and my guide Rodriguez were the first to reach summit after ascending the snowy glacier for 6 hours from 2nd camp.

The magic of solo traveling. Up until ~2 months ago, I’d barely done any trekking or climbing that an average child couldn’t have done. So how did I end up here, roped up with crampons and ice axes on a glacier?

Starting my trip in a hostel in Bogotá, Colombia, someone mentioned the Lost City trek. That seemed like an surmountable challenge, so I booked it, while continuing to research other treks and climbs in the continent I was about to explore. Huayna Potosi (HP) came up for Bolivia, it seemed impossible – but it’s beauty stuck in my imagination!

During Lost City, other treks were mentioned during conversation. Salktantay came up, group convinced me I was capable, I was doubtful. Quietly I asked around for HP, no luck yet. From there I flew to Amazonas, walked into a random guesthouse and got put into the same room as a French girl. She had just been in Bolivia for 2 months and had climbed HP! I got the number of the guide on whatsapp.

Meanwhile I did Salkantay, Rainbow mountain, Chachani and so forth, trying to prove to myself that HP was possible. I kept mentioning the mountain, even said I «would try», but I didn’t really believe it yet. Was chatting with the guide at this point though. Having summited Chachani, another 6k, I thought I’d let HP go. Arriving in La Paz however, I couldn’t stop thinking about it. But I was too tired. Went away, came back to La Paz, eventually made the reservation.

Day before my big goal: diarrhea, phone broken. Pharmacy, immodium, phone repair. Do the climb anyway, puke on the way up day 1, stuck on toilet all day 2. Fine on day 3 (summit day) although only 2 hours sleep. Wake up at 23:00, summit, walk to camp 2, pack equipment, camp 1, rest. 15 hours of absolute pain, misery, fear, and joy. The few minutes on top of these mountains just brings me to tears, the mental suffering and meditation it takes to get there, meaningful coincidences and people that made me believe in myself..

This is why traveling this way is so special. And hard.

Iguazu falls

Rio de Janairo

Categories: Barna mine, Hvor vi har vært, Sør-Amerika | Stikkord: , , , | 2 kommentarer

Thomas i Israel og Palestina påsken 2022

Thomas skriver :

I walked into Jerusalem today and managed to blend in with the Christian pilgrims. I walked with them, listened to their hymns and joined their rituals. These pictures are from the final destination, where, according to tradition, Jesus was crucified, buried and then arose.

The Old City of Jerusalem is a complex, intense and significant place. Jewish, Islamic and Christian holidays coincide and thousands of militarily armed police officers control the area. News reporters and journalists are present as well. Given this incomprehensibility I wasn’t able to fully grasp the norms. At some point I was suddenly inside of fences with guards keeping others outside, surrounded by nuns and priests. I wasn’t told to leave so I stayed till the end.

At some point there was loud screaming in front, parts of the crowd started to turn back, police officers yelling into walkie-talkies appeared. The Christian group was apparently so large that Muslims couldn’t move across the streets. Thus there was an intersection of two crowds, with a layer of armed forces separating us. An angry-ish Muslim crowd yelling at the Christian crowd to hurry, guns and rifles everywhere, tensions increasing. Eventually we passed through fine, although, and this rarely happens, I did feel scared. The intensity of the situation, being there alone, was too juicy to miss. And had I turned back I would’ve missed out on a truly special experience. Didn’t understand a word the whole day but it was quite beautiful.

Just a few hundred meters away, jews are praying at the Western Wall, and Muslims are praying by the Al-Aqsa Mosque. I did, sort of unintentionally, try to wander into the Muslim quarter to experience their rituals as well, but was unable to enter due to prayer (?). Had a great shawarma though. Literally 50 Israeli police officers guarded the entrance and apparantly I didn’t look Muslim enough and my cover was blown. Not a problem, was told in a friendly manner that, at least during prayer (?) – Muslim only. Supposedly much more interesting during prayer unfortunately..

Dystopian and wrong 🇵🇸 At least artistry and humour is still alive. Wasn’t ready for how overpowering the wall is. It cuts through the middle of the city, is around 700km long and 12m meters high at the highest. The juxtaposition of that and all the art leaves a strong impression.

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Thomas til tur Norge-Kairo

Turen startet 11. juli med tog fra Porsgrunn til Gardemoen, fly til Riga i Latvia, så ble det Villnius i Laitauen, Warzhawa i Polen, Praha i Tjekkia, videre til Bratislava i Slovakia, tog buss gjennom Ungarn for der har han vært, videre til Kroatia, så videre til Bosnia, Serbia, Monte-Negro, Kosovo, Albania, Nord-Makedonia, Bulgaria, Romania, fløy videre til Jordan (Amman) tok båt til Dahab og buss derfra til Kairo hvor han ankom 29. august.

På turen har han møtt fantastiske mennesker, spist mye god mat, badet i Dødehavet, sovet i telt i ørkenen i Jordan, besøkt byen Petra og nå skal han gå på skole på det Amerikanske universitetet i Kairo frem til jul.

Han har stort sett unngått problemer, det ble litt styr med båt fra Jordan til Egypt, den turen anbefales ikke for førstereisende backpackere. I Serbia ble han vist rundt og fortalt historier fra krigen som herjet for noen år siden. Det ble også tid til en matforgiftning, men ellers har alt gått bra 🙂

Categories: Thomas Norge-Kairo | Stikkord: , , , , | 4 kommentarer

Sky-High Summer

Dette er det fineste jeg har lest om barnet mitt noen gang. At man kan oppleve så mye på så kort tid bare ved å åpne opp og tørre å snakket, være seg selv. Så vakkert, så fint det må ha vært. For en berikelse å kunne reise og møte så fine folk. Stolt av ungen min som oppfører seg så fint, som er høflig og snill, som gjør andre glade, som er raus og vennlig. Dette var en nydelig historie. At to fremmede kan møtes på denne måten, diskutere alt fra politikk, religion, mat og sitte igjen med en følelse av at man har gitt den andre noe fint, noe man kan ta vare på som minner resten av livet.  Nå begynner jeg å forstå hvorfor dette med backpacking er så spennende for mange. Det er jo dette det handler om. Å sette spor i hjertet til andre mennesker på ferden. Tusen takk for nydelig ord og jeg ønsker deg all mulig lykke i livet ditt du vakre fremmede kvinne fra Polen ❤


Summer, my favorite season of the year (minus the scorching heat), not because I come from a hot country (Zambia) but because of how beautiful and lively everything and everyone seems to appear. The blue skies, green trees and the almost smiles on people’s faces you get to see here and there.

Summer has always been full of beautiful surprises for me, for the most part. 2020 was a year which left many bound and confined to one place—The four corners of their walls. I wasn’t an exception. But when summer knocked at my door the course of events took a shift. It came with eased COVID restrictions, which meant we were finally permitted to somewhat experience some normalcy. To some degree. And beloveds that is when I tasted true freedom after being isolated for majority of the months, perhaps not isolated but more so, social-distancing. Which frankly to me…

Vis opprinnelig innlegg 1 505 ord igjen

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Litt hagebilder

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Så lenge holdt det

Da blir det ny operasjon i morgen. Inn med ny VAP. Vekten tippet under 48 kg så da har jeg ikke noe valg. Jeg drikker masse jeg, men glemmer å spise da jeg ikke er sulten. Legene frykter for organsvikt om jeg blir tynnere og om jeg skulle bli syk. Jeg er utsatt for infeksjoner som ikke har magesekk, så glad legene passer på. Mine engler i hjemmetjenesten er helt unike. De stikker innom, ringer og spør hvordan det går. Makan til gjeng skal man lete lenge etter. Jeg betaler min skatt med stor glede det er helt sikkert 🙂

Categories: Livet mitt | Stikkord: | 4 kommentarer

Klare meg selv

For 5 uker siden fikk jeg infeksjon i veneporten. Den måtte ut. Litt usikker på hvordan dette ville gå, da jeg jo er avhengig av å få i meg nok væske.
Dagen etter hadde jeg en samtale med ernæringsfysiolog i Oslo, en ung gutt jeg ikke hadde sett før. Han sa noen jeg har tenkt mye på : Vi må ikke gjøre deg sykere enn du er. Innrømmer jo det at det å ha hatt hjemmetjenesten har gjort at jeg har vært litt sløv med hensyn til å drikke selv. Så vi bestemte at jeg skulle vente med å legge inn ny veneport. Sagt som gjort. Alle har heie på meg, leger, hjemmetjenesten, kreftkoordinator. Og i 4 uker har jeg svevd på en sky av glede, stolthet og uavhengighet. Misforstå meg rett, det å ha hatt hjemmetjenesten har vært fantastisk, men det å ikke hatt dem har også gjort at jeg har følt meg friskere. Helt frem til denne uken her. Det kom brått en endring. Kvalmen kom tilbake, svimmelheten også. Følesen av å ikke lykkes henger helt ned på skuldrene mine. Men den følelsen må jeg bli kvitt, den skal bort, jeg har forsøkt, hardt, intens, jobbet på. Men det har gått utover vekten min og i dag veide jeg bare 48,5 kg.

Jeg må ta en ny vurdering på dette kjenner jeg. Hvor mye krefter skal jeg legge i å klare meg selv? Men det er deilig å være fri til å gjøre som jeg vil…………

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Kjære tante Deta

Da var dagen kommet hvor du reiste for å møte min mamma. Jeg har våket over deg i flere dager, det har vært vondt å se at du ble så syk. Du har vært en skikkelig tøff ei siden du fikk slag høsten 2019. Så kom kreften i halsen og dessverre var det lite å gjøre med den. I dag sovnet du stille inn med dine fine gutter rundt deg.

Du har vært som en mor for meg og mine og du var alles tante Deta. Jeg hadde ikke noe usnakket med deg, du visste hva du betydde for oss. Hilse mamma, mor, onkel Reidar og alle de som venter på deg.

Glad i deg for evig fine tanta mi ❤

Categories: Livet mitt | 2 kommentarer

Ny hobby!!

Jepp, jeg skal lære meg å strikke, dvs jeg kunne visst strikke rett og vrang og jeg kan også legge opp masker 🙂 Ja, ble du overrasket? Det ble jeg også når jeg fant det ut. Det var min venn Marit som fikk meg til å prøve, og jeg klarer det! Det jeg derimot IKKE klarer er å lese oppskrifter. Herregud de kunne lige godt vært skrevet på gresk………..

Men igjen, Marit skal bistå og jeg skal jammen i meg klare dette!! Har bestilt meg strikkepakke og den var så dyr at jeg jammen i meg må få det til 🙂

Categories: Hobby | 3 kommentarer

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